Dior and the Image: Shifting Identities and Art in the Post-Photography Era

The Profound Bond Between Dior and Photography: A Look into the House’s Creative Vision

Artistic Roots Preceding Fashion

When Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director at Dior Beauty, spoke about the late designer Christian Dior, he highlighted a lesser-known side of the fashion icon. He said:

“People often forget that Christian Dior was an art curator before he became a fashion designer.”

This remark came during an interview in Arles, a serene city in the Provence region of France. Though known for its tranquil charm, Arles has also hosted one of the world’s most prestigious photography festivals for over five decades: the Rencontres d’Arles.

Investing in Visual Arts

In 2017, Dior announced a strategic partnership with the LUMA Foundation for contemporary arts, which led to the launch of the Dior Photography and Visual Arts Award for Young Talents.
This initiative was not merely a cultural sponsorship, but rather part of a broader vision to reconnect the worlds of fashion and art.

It’s worth noting that the LUMA Foundation has played a transformative role in reshaping Arles’ cultural landscape — especially following the 2021 inauguration of its iconic tower designed by architect Frank Gehry, which introduced a new architectural and visual dimension to the city.

Photography: An Integral Part of Dior’s Identity

According to Philips, art has always been embedded in Dior’s creative DNA:

“Historically, every Creative Director at Dior has had a strong connection to the arts — whether through collaboration with artists or collecting their works — so this approach is completely aligned with the house’s identity.”

What Philips did not state explicitly is that photography, in particular, has always played a vital role in shaping Dior’s image. From advertising campaigns and editorial photo shoots to historical documentation, the camera lens has long been instrumental in portraying Dior to the world.

Arles: A Mirror for Photographers, as Paris is for Designers

In closing, Philips shared a powerful comparison:

“What Paris represents to fashion designers, Arles represents to photographers.”

With this analogy, Philips positions Arles as a symbolic counterpart to the fashion capital, affirming its centrality in the world of photography — just as Paris remains the beating heart of the fashion industry.

Exploring Identity Through the Eyes of a New Generation of Photographers

A Global Call for Visual Expression

As part of a prominent annual initiative, the Dior Beauty Award invited students from around the world to submit photographic works that explore the theme “Face to Face.”
This open call provided a platform for young creatives to delve into complex, personal concepts through their lenses — in an artistic experience that goes beyond the technical aspects of photography.

A Notable Evolution in the Nature of Submissions

Peter Philips notes that the nature of the submissions has evolved over time. While earlier entries tended to be more abstract or conceptual, real-world issues gradually began to shape the content.
For instance, during the COVID-19 pandemic, the works took on a darker tone, and the number of submissions dropped significantly due to school closures. However, as the crisis subsided, the award experienced a strong resurgence, accompanied by a noticeable maturity in the themes explored.

Identity as a Central Theme

In the most recent edition, the jury observed that nearly 80% of the entries focused on identity, according to Japanese photographer Yuriko Takagi, who chaired the jury panel, which also included Philips, Simon Baker, and South African photographer Lebohang Kganye.

Personal Motivations Behind the Camera

Takagi remarked:

“I find it surprising and fascinating. I realized that many young people are grappling with questions of identity in various ways — some are exploring issues related to family, gender, or nationality — and they’re seeing themselves both from within and from the outside.”

This introspective approach reflects a new aesthetic and philosophical awareness among the younger generation. Photography is no longer just a tool for documenting reality — it has become a means of self-discovery and redefining one’s sense of belonging.

Toward New Forms of Visual Expression: The Dior Prize and Post-Photographic Art

A Jury of Diverse Voices

The Dior Prize for Photography and Visual Arts for Young Talents 2025, held at Luma Arles, was chaired by Japanese photographer Yuriko Takagi. The jury also included notable figures such as Peter Philips, Simon Baker, and Lebohang Kganye, bringing a rich diversity of perspectives and evaluative styles to the competition.

A Shift in Mediums: From Photography to Hybrid Visual Languages

This year marked a notable transformation in artistic tools and formats. Many participants moved away from traditional film-based photography, instead embracing video, digital effects, and artificial intelligence as core components of their work.

• Chinese artist Qianyi Bao, based in Shanghai, presented a video titled “Chasing the Wind River”, poetically documenting the life of nomadic yak-herding communities in southeastern Tibet. The visual language conveyed the slow rhythm of nature and pastoral life.
• Japanese photographer Momo Nakawa crafted a psychologically intense surrealist digital composition built from layers of printed images shot in her studio, later merging them into a video that reflects her use of AI.
• Swiss artist Aline Savioz focused on futuristic fantasy, generating images of alien-like beings set in carefully crafted synthetic backgrounds — an exploration of humanity’s evolving relationship with machines.
• American artist Ren Roberts presented a hybrid of still image and video. Using abstract forms and three-dimensional flowers printed on Japanese washi paper and carved wood, her piece addressed ecological decay, inspired by her personal battle with stage-four cancer.

The Winner: A Silent Meditation on Identity

The grand prize was awarded to Joel Quayson, a student at the Royal Academy of Art in The Hague, for his video piece “How do you feel?” — a slow-paced self-portrait that blends silent performance, physical expression, and emotional abstraction.

In the video, Quayson appears seated quietly, staring directly at the camera. He applies makeup, changes outfits, then removes them all — as though confronting himself without masks.
This is all set against a whispered, repeating question over the span of four minutes and twenty-eight seconds:
“How do you feel?”

This repetition acts as both a personal meditation and a reflection of Quayson’s inner conflict — caught between expressive fluidity and traditional expectations, shaped by his religious upbringing in Ghana.

Behind the Camera: The Tension Between Expression and Silence

Despite winning the award, Quayson revealed that although his family knows about the prize, they have not yet seen the work — a reality that underscores the delicate tension between self-expression and the need for concealment.
He says:

“It’s me in the video, and I’m telling the story without speaking. But I had a message I wanted to share. I wanted people to ask themselves: How do they feel? Who are they? What could make them feel better? And why do we sometimes present ourselves in ways that don’t reflect who we really are?”

Jury’s Verdict: Simplicity with Emotional Depth

Takagi reflected on the winning piece:

“Since I first saw it, I couldn’t forget it. It looks simple and direct, but there’s a mystery in it. I couldn’t forget his eyes, his movements, his silence. He sees himself from the outside while diving into his inner world — and somehow, that mirrors something within all of us.”

Exhibition and Future Grant

Quayson will receive a €10,000 grant from the House of Dior. His work, How do you feel?, will be exhibited at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris in early 2026.
It will also be featured as part of a group exhibition showcasing the top 10 finalists at Luma Arles’ L’Amphithéâtre building, from July 5 to October 5, 2025.
Notably, artist Ren Roberts received a special mention from the jury.

✦ ArchUp Editorial Insight

This award underscores the significance of photography as a contemporary medium for redefining notions of self and identity. It also reflects the dynamic nature of art in the digital age—where the image transforms from a static moment into a holistic, contemplative experience.

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