Between Capitals and Catwalks: A Critical Reading of Nadège Vanhee’s Conceptual Shifts in Hermès Shows

Geographical Shifts and Their Impact on Fashion Shows

From Paris to New York: A Vision Beyond Borders

About a year ago, Nadège Vanhee, the artistic director of women’s collections at Hermès, relocated from Paris to New York to unveil what she called the “second chapter” of the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The venue was carefully selected: a temporary space at Pier 36 in the Lower East Side—a decision that reflected the designer’s intent to capture the city’s rhythm rather than settle for a conventional or familiar location.

This move was not merely a geographic transition, but also a shift in the way fashion is presented. The show transcended the traditional visual spectacle, becoming an immersive, sensory experience. Vanhee’s professional background—having previously worked in New York—gave her a nuanced understanding of the city’s fast-paced culture and dynamic energy.

Recreating Atmosphere in a New City: Shanghai

Following New York, Vanhee chose Shanghai to recreate the experience, this time with a fresh perspective that respected the location’s unique identity. On a humid summer evening, the show took place along the Huangpu River in the North Bund Bay area, a space that represents a convergence of modern architecture and contemporary Chinese identity.

What stood out wasn’t just the venue, but the way the backdrop was revealed: a long row of floor-to-ceiling windows gradually opened as the show began, unveiling a glittering cityscape of glass towers and neon lights—reminiscent of a sci-fi universe. The event thus evolved from a mere fashion presentation into a temporary theatrical experience rich in both visual and conceptual dimensions.

Temporary Architecture as a Narrative Tool

What distinguishes both shows is the use of a temporary structure described by the fashion house as “adaptable,” serving a dual purpose: to host the runway and then transform into a celebratory space. This structure is not merely a design gimmick, but a narrative tool that echoes themes of movement and transformation—and perhaps alludes to the flexibility that has become essential in today’s world.

The Evolution of Visual Storytelling: From Paris to Shanghai

Chapter Two: From Soil to Street

This show marked the culmination of the second phase of Nadège Vanhee’s concept known as “Chapter Two,” a continuation of the Fall/Winter 2025 collection first presented in Paris. There, on a spiral runway covered in soil, the models embodied strength and resilience through a commanding physical presence and defiant looks. The message was clear: the modern woman “moves forward without looking back,” as Vanhee described it.

From Symbolism to Reality

In Shanghai, however, the tone shifted slightly. The heroine was no longer anchored in the symbolic earthiness of design, but transported into the dense reality of the city—where daily life and constant motion prevail. This transition marked a shift from introspective reflection to active engagement with the urban landscape, giving the show a more spontaneous and eclectic character.

Fashion as a Tool for Adaptation

Within this context, the new looks reflected the idea of adapting to unfamiliar environments. The outfits were layered and rich in accessories that suggested preparedness and openness to the unexpected—much like a traveler navigating an unknown city. Notable details included leather water bottle holders, jackets tied around the waist, and bags worn unconventionally across the chest or shoulder. These elements were more than decorative—they offered a subtle rebuttal to the classic stereotypes associated with Hermès bags, by presenting practical and contemporary alternatives.

The Explorer Woman: A Contemporary, Multidimensional Image

Between Contrast and Harmony

Nadège Vanhee believes that today’s woman no longer fits into a single image or fixed mold. Accordingly, she described the looks in her collection as representing a “global explorer woman,” in whom opposites coexist: strength and femininity, intellect and playfulness. This fusion not only reflects a personal vision, but also conveys an evolving understanding of women’s roles in contemporary global contexts—and how fashion can respond to this multiplicity.

Style as a Flexible Mode of Expression

As seen in the New York show, the shift to Shanghai allowed Vanhee to experiment with freer, bolder compositions. Colors and patterns intertwined, and the designs carried a sense of transformation: sleeves pushed up, layers in motion, and fabrics reshaping themselves in real time. Some garments were hybrid and adjustable, hinting at the idea that today’s woman needs clothing that adapts with her—not garments that confine her.

Everyday Details in an Aesthetic Context

Sensory references were ever-present in the show. Glossy boots reflected the city’s lights, and headphones suggested that the model was on her way to lose herself in the buzz of the nightlife. These simple details conveyed a sense of liberation from the formal codes of high fashion, anchoring the collection in the lived reality of a woman who moves, travels, and experiences.

The Braid as Symbol: Between Craft and Legacy

From Equestrian Roots to the Contemporary Wardrobe

One of the most prominent motifs Vanhee drew upon was the braid—specifically, equestrian braiding, which ties back to Hermès’ heritage as a saddle-making house in the 19th century. This motif appeared throughout the collection as a decorative element: from silk scarves like the Dressage Tressage, to the inner linings of coats, demonstrating how small details can carry profound visual and cultural legacies.

Braiding as a Cultural Metaphor

But Vanhee didn’t stop at the symbol. She reflected on the act of braiding itself—as a process that demands patience and brings together multiple strands to form a single, coherent whole. This metaphor lies at the core of her work at Hermès: collaborating closely with artisans, and weaving together diverse cultural influences into a unified design that speaks to the spirit of the contemporary woman, regardless of her background or location.

An Inside Look: Design as a Mirror of Women’s Lives

In a 2024 interview with Wallpaper magazine, Nadège Vanhee encapsulated her design philosophy in a profound statement:

“I simply observe different types of women and their needs. I love stepping out of my comfort zone and asking the question: How does a woman live in Hong Kong? Or a woman in Sacramento? One of the privileges of our civilization is that we live in a time of hyper-globalization: we can see, we can go, we can explore. We are no longer trapped in our little ivory towers.”

This statement reflects both a humanistic and epistemological stance. For Vanhee, design doesn’t begin with the imposition of a predetermined aesthetic, but with careful observation and engagement with the lived realities of women across the globe. Through this lens, fashion is transformed from a mere visual product into a medium for understanding the other—whether that other is a woman, a culture, or a city.

✦ ArchUp Editorial Insight

Vanhee’s work reveals a remarkable ability to absorb contradictions and weave them into a cohesive identity that bears the unmistakable signature of Hermès. Her blend of rigidity and femininity, intellect and playfulness, doesn’t come across as mere aesthetic flair—it feels like a deliberate attempt to portray a multidimensional image of the contemporary woman.

Yet, this delicate balance between creativity and brand identity raises questions about authenticity and sustainability. While the collection succeeds in delivering visually compelling narratives, the density of detail and multiplicity of references may overwhelm some viewers or give the impression that visual opulence has come at the expense of simplicity and clarity.

The use of the “braid” as both a decorative and intellectual motif reveals a deeply philosophical layer to the design. However, the recurrence of such symbols can sometimes be perceived as overused metaphors—aiming to establish connections that may not always be immediately apparent to the untrained eye.

On a practical level, questions remain about the wearability of these pieces in everyday life, especially given the designer’s insistence on conceptual styling.

In the end, Vanhee offers a rich visual and intellectual experience—one that challenges conventions—but not without facing the complexities of presenting such creations to a global audience with diverse tastes and needs.

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