A radiant morning unfolds in Abu Dhabi as 40 journalists from various corners of the globe enter a softly rounded structure reminiscent of a miniature dome. A noticeable shift in atmosphere occurs as they transition from the cubic gallery and bar, where they had been enjoying green juices moments earlier, akin to stepping into a church on a dazzling summer day. Conversations quiet down, eyes acclimate to the dimness, and attendees settle onto the luxurious terracotta-hued carpet. The individual we have gathered to meet makes his entrance: the innovative urban planner, spiritual potter, and renowned artist, Theaster Gates, who is the creative force behind this year’s edition of Prada Mode.
“I aimed for a kindergarten approach, striving for simplicity,” the Chicago-based artist articulates, elucidating the dynamic duality of the site-specific installation he has crafted in the MiZa district, a thriving creative area along the waterfront that was once a bustling port in the 1970s. “When laying the emotional groundwork for a project, the initial words hold significant weight. I began by stating: ‘The show will revolve around a circle and a square.’ In my interpretation, the circle symbolizes community, democracy, femininity, and creativity, while the square embodies rigidity and infrastructure. I hoped this would serve as a sufficient catalyst for remarkable outcomes.”
Inside Prada Mode Abu Dhabi, hosted by Theaster Gates
The soft circular structure at the heart of Prada Mode in Abu Dhabi, hosted by the American artist Theaster Gates
(Image credit: Courtesy of Prada)
Prada Mode is an innovative arts-focused initiative that combines installation art, music, culinary experiences, and live performances in vibrant cultural hubs worldwide. Launched in London in 2008 with Carsten Höller, each edition has been curated by a different artist, featuring notable figures such as Damien Hirst, Martine Syms, and Kazuyo Sejima, who is part of the RIBA Gold Medal-winning firm Sanaa. Notably, Theaster Gates is the only artist to have led Prada Mode on three occasions. As a platform designed to foster social interaction and collaboration, Gates aims to provide fresh insights into a city that is often misinterpreted by Western perspectives.
“The sacred is present in everyday life in the UAE. I thought we would try to bring some of that here.”
Theaster Gates
Gates was the youngest of nine children and the only son in his family. Born to a teacher and a roofer, he was instilled with an appreciation for education and craftsmanship from an early age. Although he initially trained in sculpture and urban planning, it was a trip to the quaint Japanese town of Tokoname in his twenties to learn pottery that profoundly influenced his artistic philosophy. There, he recognized that a clay pot could serve both practical purposes, like holding tea for daily enjoyment, and spiritual ones, such as containing the ashes of a loved one. This experience led him to view the ‘vessel’ as a symbol of life’s complexities, and he has since regarded his work as a means of honoring the ‘spirit within things.’
He remarked, “Studying clay taught me that even the most unappealing, muddy, or formless objects are simply awaiting the right hands to shape them.” The motivations that have driven his subsequent creations—such as the desire to learn, document, endure, and connect—can be traced back to his time in Tokoname, as he shared with an audience in Abu Dhabi. “From 2004 to 2024, I nurtured a bond with this small town and continued to discuss pots until the world was ready to engage in that conversation. I always advise people to remain true to their passions, and perhaps, in time, the world will take an interest in what you cherish.”
(Image credit: Courtesy of Prada)
Gates brings a sense of grounding to Prada Mode Abu Dhabi by shifting away from the extravagant party atmosphere of previous years. This time, he aims for a more thoughtful approach. “As you drive around, significant mosques are everywhere,” he notes. “The sacred is woven into daily life in the UAE, and I wanted to incorporate that essence here.” He conceptualized the installation with two distinct areas: one expansive space for socializing, featuring flowing drinks and energetic DJ performances, and another intimate setting designed for learning and reflection. To infuse spirituality into the event, he chose to highlight the voices of Arab women.
“Such projects often lean heavily towards male representation,” Gates remarks. “I recognize the gender biases I’ve benefited from. With eight sisters, I constantly think of them. If I have a platform, I want to share it with women.” Collaborating with curator Myrna Ayad and NTS founder Femi Adeyemi, Gates developed a program that showcases female talent from the UAE and the Arab diaspora. This included discussions with female artists exploring themes of tradition and modernity, traditional weaving workshops led by Awatef Al-Mesmari, dynamic performances by the girl band Seera and DJ Nooriyah, as well as culinary offerings from Salam Dakkak. “The goal was to initiate an artistic endeavor by focusing on what is immediately available,” Gates explains. “What materials can be sourced locally? What knowledge is accessible? There is depth in this exploration, and it’s about uncovering those insights.”
In the larger space, a curated collection of images printed on cotton sails dances in the wind, featuring visuals from Gates’ extensive archive of 60,000 decommissioned glass lantern slides preserved from the University.
The exterior of the space, which was constructed in Abu Dhabi’s MiZa district
(Image credit: Courtesy of Prada)
Prada Mode serves as more than just a celebration; it provides Gates with a platform to share significant narratives about the UAE. The environment evokes memories of some of his most impactful initiatives. For instance, he revitalized the neglected street of his childhood in Chicago, where he rescued a crumbling house two decades ago and transformed it into a library housing 14,000 art books. Subsequently, he converted the adjacent property into a listening space filled with salvaged records and established a soul food restaurant in between. By revitalizing the area and drawing in creators and artists, these locations have evolved into essential archives of Black history and vibrant community hubs.
Gates’ poignant Serpentine Pavilion, Black Chapel, also comes to mind. Created in 2022 as a tribute to his late father, this circular structure echoes the design of a clay pot and reflects the tarred materials his father used for daily roof repairs. The installation was brought to life through a cultural program featuring music, performances, and shared ideas. In every case, Gates demonstrates that his artwork serves primarily as a means to connect people. Ultimately, they function as conduits for community engagement.
“The intention was to initiate an artistic endeavor by focusing on what is immediately present. There is depth in this approach, emphasizing the importance of uncovering that discovery.”
Theaster Gates
It is platforms like this, where music, ideas, and traditions converge, that have fostered the strong connection between Gates and Prada. Miuccia Prada first encountered the avant-garde artist in 2012 at the renowned Soho jazz venue, Ronnie Scott’s. Gates was performing with his band, The Black Monks, during his visit to London for the opening of his exhibition, In the Event of a Race Riot, at The Arts Club, showcasing impactful pieces crafted from retired fire hoses. The two quickly formed a friendship, and over the years, the designer has integrated Gates into the cultural framework of the brand, appointing him as co-chair of its Diversity and Inclusion Council, hosting two exhibitions at Fondazione Prada, and allowing him creative freedom on initiatives like Prada Mode and the Experimental Design Lab, which highlighted emerging Black creative talents. “Prada’s a family company in Italy,” Gates remarks with a warm chuckle. “They could certainly benefit from some diversity, if you catch my drift.”
One of the Prada Mode talks, featuring Zain Masud, Vikram Divecha, Theaster Gates and Myrna Ayad
(Image credit: Courtesy of Prada)
Gates speaks with a blend of natural wisdom and humor, making his insights a pleasure to hear. One of the most compelling points he makes during his talk in the womb-like duomo is his perspective on his role. He asserts that he does not identify as a ‘community artist,’ despite dedicating decades to creating art that fosters connections among people and ideas within spaces. “My project was less about Chicago and more about showcasing the wealth and richness that exists right before us,” he articulates. “I’m not a community artist or an activist; I’m simply an individual. However, my work heavily relies on the willingness to engage with remarkable people in extraordinary places, even if others have yet to recognize their true value.”
In this context, Gates seems to address the Western stereotypes surrounding Abu Dhabi, often viewed through the lens of conservative values and immense wealth. As one navigates the city, the opulence of its seven-star hotels and newly erected landmarks—like the Louvre Abu Dhabi, which houses some of the world’s most priceless artworks—presents a strikingly surreal experience. Nevertheless, Gates’ appreciation for the city delves deeper than its glitzy façade of skyscrapers and shopping centers; he honors the rich Middle Eastern traditions of hospitality, the emergence of new artistic and musical voices, and the fundamental human experience of gathering.
“We owe our presence here to the generosity of this place,” he emphasizes. “It embodies a belief in culture and fashion, as well as a strong sense of self-worth. By shifting our focus from mere celebration to dialogue, I hope we can honor and elevate these remarkable voices right here.”
Prada Mode is open to the public today, 14 February 2025. Register here.
prada.com
Gates saidhe asked his team to pull up ‘everything that feels in some way connected to the sacred’
(Image credit: Courtesy of Prada)
📅 Published on: 2025-02-14 02:54:00
🖋️ Author: – An expert in architectural innovation and design trends.
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