Research Meets Function: Inside Goldwin 0’s Journey in Toyama

Toyama Prefecture: A Fertile Ground for Textile Innovation

Just two hours north of Tokyo by bullet train lies Toyama Prefecture, one of Japan’s lush and tranquil regions. Within this serene natural setting stands the Goldwin campus, a site that combines a factory with a development lab, spanning an area of 20,000 square meters.

From Technical Apparel to Future Materials

Founded in 1954, the parent label Goldwin has focused since its inception on developing technical fabrics and performance wear. Over time, its activities have expanded to include remarkable innovations such as Brewed Protein™ fibers developed by Spiber — fibers produced through a fermentation process that feels straight out of science fiction, creating synthetic protein threads.

In addition, the company continues to explore fabric production using waste plastic collected from nearby coastal communities — a step that bridges advanced technology with environmental awareness.

Goldwin 0: Experimentation at the Core

Out of this spirit of exploration, the idea for Goldwin 0 emerged as a more experimental and forward-looking branch. It is led by Nur Abbas, a British-born designer now based in Portland. Abbas’s background includes work at renowned fashion houses such as Maison Margiela, Louis Vuitton (under Kim Jones), Yeezy, and Uniqlo U.

This diverse experience enables him to blend poetic sensibility with technical precision in garment making — giving Goldwin 0 a conceptual dimension that goes beyond the conventional function of clothing.

Design Between Luxury Fashion and Functional Performance

During a recent tour of the Goldwin 0 campus, designer Nur Abbas explained how working on technical apparel differs fundamentally from his experience in luxury fashion houses. He pointed out that luxury design often focuses on transforming sportswear into more elegant pieces, but mainly on a surface level — without truly addressing its functional performance.

In contrast, the world of functional clothing offers room for meticulous experimentation and real-world testing. Abbas emphasizes that wearing a garment in genuine conditions — whether running or climbing a mountain — and using it for several days allows the designer to form a close relationship with the product. This hands-on approach helps uncover its strengths and weaknesses, opening the door to continuous refinement.

From Concept to Application: Trail Running in Nature

Building on this practical mindset, Goldwin 0 launched its latest project: a new line of high-performance apparel inspired by trail running — a sport with deep roots in Japan. For example, the historic Nakasendo Trail, stretching 330 miles from Kyoto to Tokyo, remains a favorite route for runners worldwide. Many runners move from one hot spring (onsen) to another, taking advantage of the diverse terrain and ancient pathways.

Applied Research: Heatmaps in Service of Design

To achieve high levels of efficiency and comfort, this line was developed through close collaboration between the Toyama Techlab and Abbas’s design team. Precise testing played a vital role — most notably, mapping runners’ bodies with heatmaps during runs to identify areas most exposed to sunlight or prone to heavy sweating.

These insights were then used to engineer garments with strategically placed ventilation zones or panels that help reflect heat away from the body. The result shows how thoughtful design can seamlessly merge aesthetics with practical functionality.

Test Results: From Concept to Practical Details

The impact of this meticulous design approach is clearly reflected in the Performance Collection, the first of its kind under the Goldwin 0 line. Notably, the collection consists of a limited number of items — just five pieces in total — highlighting the team’s commitment to design quality and real-world testing over quantity.

Thoughtfully Designed Core Pieces

The collection includes both long- and short-sleeved shirts made from quick-drying, moisture-wicking fabrics. These shirts also feature carefully placed circular ventilation openings to ensure maximum comfort and breathability during movement.

Equally important is the emphasis on freedom of movement, clearly visible in the design of the water-repellent Ripstop shorts, which come in a wide cut to make running and navigating rough terrain easier.

A Running Backpack with Functional Details

The focus on smart, functional design goes beyond clothing alone. One standout accessory is the lightweight Goldwin Star Trail Pack, a running backpack that has been redesigned with 26 ventilation holes. These openings promote airflow and reduce sweating, allowing runners to complete longer routes even in hot weather without excess heat buildup.

✦ ArchUp Editorial Insight

The Goldwin 0 experience demonstrates how field research and technical innovation can transform the idea of sportswear — turning it from simple consumer products into well-considered tools that reflect an ongoing relationship between the wearer and their environment.

Ultimately, the promise remains that good design is never about appearance alone, but about the real value it delivers to those who wear it.

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