Sophie Buhai Blurs the Line Between Jewelry and Object

A Storied Past Reimagined

Founded in 1972, Galerie Anne-Sophie Duval in Paris became a name to know when Anne-Sophie Duval invited a then-rising Karl Lagerfeld—creative director at Chloé—to design her booth at La Biennale Paris. Imagine a young Jonathan Anderson styling a contemporary New York gallery booth today—that was the level of cultural splash Lagerfeld made.

His bold scenographic choices—black industrial rubber flooring, stainless steel and illuminated glass stages, and emerald green lacquered walls—all set the stage for the gallery’s modernist Deco aesthetic, featuring works by legends like Pierre Chareau. That moment put the gallery squarely on the map.

Now, more than 50 years later, the gallery has reopened its doors after a full year of renovations by renowned French architect Sylvain Dubuisson, with direction from Julie Blum, Duval’s daughter and the gallery’s current head.

A Dramatic Comeback With Sophie Buhai

To celebrate the reopening, the gallery has once again partnered with a fashion-forward talent—this time, Sophie Buhai, known for her minimalist yet sculptural sensibility. Her exhibition, “Jewelry Objects,” is on view until June 30, marking the 10-year anniversary of her studio.

But this isn’t your typical jewelry show.

Where Sculpture Meets Accessory

Buhai’s works on display blur the lines between functional objects and wearable art. These 19 unique or limited-edition pieces showcase her eye for form and her fascination with tactile beauty.

Among the highlights:

A bud vase drenched in jet-black urushi lacquer, set with carnelian cabochons
A surrealist magnifying glass
A sterling silver toothpick case with a dangling jade detail
A cigarette holder featuring a garnet teardrop
A tasseled minaudière
A curved letter opener that feels more like a sculpture than a tool

The Beauty of Adorned Utility

The exhibit leans heavily toward object design over conventional jewelry, but that’s exactly what makes it fascinating. It’s a celebration of the adornment of everyday items, a subtle rebellion against the purely utilitarian.

This show underscores how Buhai’s work has evolved into something deeper—an ongoing meditation on how we engage with beauty in the objects we live with.

Timeless Drama in a New Chapter

As Galerie Anne-Sophie Duval enters its next chapter, it does so with the same commitment to boundary-pushing aesthetics that defined its debut five decades ago. If you’re in Paris before June 30, this is a space—and an exhibition—not to miss.