The Beginning of Valentino Garavani’s Journey and the Color Red
In 1959, Valentino Garavani presented his first collection, which received immediate acclaim in Rome. This collection was distinguished by a dress called “La Fiesta” in a bold red color. This color was not just an ordinary choice but later became a signature mark in his artistic career. It is internationally recognized as a special shade within the Pantone classifications.
The Significance of the Color Red in Valentino’s Work
This distinctive shade is known as “Valentino Red,” a crimson color that symbolizes his rich and diverse works across many decades. This color reflects a continuous artistic vision. It was not merely a color used to decorate clothes, but an embodiment of a unique artistic identity that lasted throughout his career.
The Opening Exhibition “Horizons/Red” at PM23
Located just a few meters from the starting point of his career in Rome, an exhibition titled “Horizons/Red” was inaugurated at the new cultural center PM23. This exhibition represents an attempt to understand and explore the cultural and symbolic depth of this color. It does so in the worlds of fashion and art.
Exhibition Themes and Sections
The exhibition is divided into six newly restored rooms and addresses five main themes:
- The Definition of Beauty
- Identity
- Emotional Scenes
- Surface Treatment
- Dreamy Surfaces
Through these themes, 50 of Valentino’s most famous creations were displayed. These covered a period from the beginning of his career in 1959 until his retirement in 2008. The exhibition included 30 artworks dominated by the color red.
The Convergence of Art and Fashion: A Visual Dialogue Through Time
The exhibition features a selection of pieces that create a visual bridge between the worlds of fashion and fine art. Among them is a couture tulle dress from Valentino’s pioneering 1959 collection. It engages in a visual conversation with Cy Twombly’s painting Untitled (2008).
Similarly, a backless crepe dress from the Spring/Summer 2008 season faces Clifford Still’s painting 1955-D, PH-387. Meanwhile, a bubble-wrap taffeta dress contemplates Francis Bacon’s Sandy Dune (1983). Column dresses stand gracefully before Louise Bourgeois’s 20-frame assemblage titled 10 A.M. is When I Come to You (2006). These are just examples of the multiple visual dialogues the exhibition offers.
A Shared Emotional and Professional Experience
Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino’s partner in life and work, told Wallpaper magazine before the exhibition’s opening on May 25:
“Seeing the dresses and artworks together stirred emotions we did not expect. This experience reminded us of the timelessness of beauty. It also highlighted how creative works communicate across decades. It was a journey that united both the professional and personal sides simultaneously.”
Curator Pamela Golbin’s Role in the Restoration
Pamela Golbin, who previously curated the exhibition Valentino: Themes and Variations at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in 2008, was called upon to organize this exhibition as well.
Golbin was given full freedom to select 50 dresses from Valentino’s archive, carefully restoring them to be perfectly exhibition-ready. She faced the challenge of highlighting Valentino’s legacy as one of the world’s foremost fashion designers. Thus, she chose an approach that reflects the authenticity of the designs while honoring the spirit of creativity that defines his work.
Authenticity of the Exhibition: Rejecting Artificial Dialogues Between Art and Fashion
Pamela Golbin, the curator responsible for the exhibition, explained in an interview with Wallpaper magazine that a common mistake in previous art and fashion exhibitions is imposing interpretations or meanings on fashion pieces that the designer never intended. Therefore, she was keen to preserve authenticity and avoid creating “artificial dialogues” between the artworks and Valentino’s dresses.
Golbin emphasized that Mr. Valentino did not engage in dialogue with those artworks or the artists. Often these artists had passed away long before and were unaware of his work. Therefore, any attempt at a direct connection was unrealistic.
Unintended Chemistry: Beauty as a Unifying Element
Nevertheless, an unexpected “chemistry” emerged between the dresses and the exhibited artworks, as both converged around a shared theme of beauty. This unplanned interaction suggests that beauty itself is the force that generates more beauty. This is the essence of the vision of the institution that created the exhibition.
Valentino’s Participation and Reflection on His Legacy
Valentino, who recently celebrated his 93rd birthday, was directly involved in the exhibition’s preparation stages. He visited the venue a day before the private tour organized by Wallpaper magazine. This visit offered him and Giancarlo Giammetti a moment to pause and reflect on the journey they had built.
Giammetti expressed his feelings, saying:
“It’s a deeply emotional feeling. You don’t truly realize the magnitude of what you have built until you take a step back. Organizing this exhibition was a way to look at our past—not out of nostalgia, but as a source of inspiration for what lies ahead.”
A New Cultural Center in the Heart of Rome
Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino’s partner, described the “Horizons/Red” exhibition as the beginning of a series of events to be held at the PM23 space. This space aims to become an important center for cultural exchange. This project holds great significance for him and Valentino, representing the fulfillment of a long-held dream.
A Space for Creativity and Renewal
PM23 serves as the permanent headquarters for the cultural mission supported by the Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti Foundation. It forms a vibrant open space welcoming creativity, new voices, and the building of an inspiring cultural community. This vision reflects a desire to create a platform that continuously attracts and nurtures emerging talents.
A Message to Future Generations of Creators
Giammetti expresses his hope that future generations of creators remain steadfast in their curiosity, authenticity, and courage—just as he and Valentino were when they met in 1960. While the world changes, the need for vision and boldness remains constant.
He emphasizes that art and fashion are not merely industries but powerful means of telling human stories. Therefore, he hopes the next generation will feel empowered to embark on telling their own stories. If even one person is inspired to pursue a path of beauty and purpose, their efforts will be deemed successful and meaningful.
